Stucco Painting in Fort Worth, TX

Stucco is a rigid cement plaster over lath, and it can't bend much. When expansive clay soil swells in a wet spring and shrinks in a dry August, the foundation moves slightly, and that movement shows up as diagonal cracks off window and door corners. Thermal swings add finer map cracking across wide walls. Some cracks are cosmetic hairlines, while others let water reach the lath and sheathing behind the plaster, which is where real damage begins.

We sort cracks into three groups before any paint is discussed. Hairline cracks under about one sixteenth of an inch are usually bridged by an elastomeric topcoat. Wider cracks are opened with a grinder or crack chaser and filled with a flexible patching compound. Cracks with offset faces, bulging or crumbling stucco may signal moisture behind the wall, and we'll show you those and recommend a stucco repair specialist when it goes beyond surface patching.

Elastomeric coatings are thick, rubbery acrylics applied at roughly 10 to 20 dry mils, several times the thickness of normal paint. They stretch over hairline cracks as the wall moves and shed wind-driven rain very well, which makes them a strong choice for cracked stucco on older homes. The downsides are less breathability, a slightly plastic sheen, and harder future touch-ups. Elastomeric also needs a primer and absolutely dry stucco, or it can blister.

Masonry acrylic paints are thinner and more breathable, with a flatter, more natural look. They suit newer stucco in good condition and synthetic finishes where trapping vapor would be a concern. We'll recommend one based on crack density, wall exposure and how the stucco was built, and we're happy to brush both on a small test patch so you can compare sheen and feel. Color plays in too: very dark elastomeric colors absorb more heat on a west wall, so we tend to suggest mid-tones for the sunniest elevations.

• Elastomeric: 10 to 20 dry mils, bridges hairline cracks
• Masonry acrylic: more breathable, flatter, easier to touch up
• Alkali-resistant primer on new or patched stucco
• Both need fully cured patches and a dry wall

A filled crack or patched hole that's smooth on a sand-finish wall will stand out under paint, especially in low afternoon light. We match the existing texture, whether that's a fine sand float, a heavier dash, a Santa Barbara smooth trowel or a lace finish, using patching stucco or acrylic texture compound applied with sponges, floats and hopper guns. Patches cure before priming, typically 24 to 72 hours depending on depth and weather.

We also deal with the leftover holes from old satellite dishes, light fixtures and security cameras. These are filled, textured and primed, so the wall looks continuous instead of dotted with ghost marks. On homes with foam trim bands or arches, we check for dents and gaps where the foam meets the field stucco and seal them with a flexible sealant before coating. Weep screeds at the base of the wall are left open so moisture can still drain out.

Stucco drinks paint. We start by washing walls with a cleaner and low-pressure rinse to remove chalk, dust and any mildew, then let the wall dry for at least two clear days. Primer goes on next. For the topcoat, we spray and back-roll with a 3/4 to 1-1/4 inch nap roller so material fills every pocket of texture; spraying alone tends to leave pinholes on the shaded side of each grain.

Elastomeric coatings are usually applied in one or two heavy coats to reach their film build, while masonry acrylics go on in two standard coats. Most products need surface temperatures of at least 50F and no rain for 24 hours. Elastomeric can stay soft for a day or more in humid weather, so we keep sprinklers off and avoid scheduling just before a storm line. Coverage is checked with a wet-film gauge on each wall.