Patio Cover and Pergola Painting in Fort Worth, TX

On an open pergola, the top edges of every rafter and purlin take direct sun and rain, while the sides and undersides stay in partial shade. That's why paint and stain wear first on top surfaces and rafter ends, often in two or three years, while the posts still look fine. Water sits on flat tops and soaks into end grain, then the sun bakes it out, so the wood checks and splits along its length. On solid-roof patio covers, the beams and posts take less weather, but the fascia and exposed rafter tails at the edge still bear the brunt.

Because so much of the damage is up high, it's easy to miss until paint is falling onto the patio. We get up close on ladders and scaffolding, check the top surfaces you can't see from the ground, and plan repairs before any color goes on. Fixing split rafter ends early keeps water from traveling deeper into the beam. We'll also send you photos of the top surfaces so you can see what we see.

Paint gives a crisp, uniform look that ties a patio cover to the house trim, and it hides mismatched lumber from past repairs. It needs a good primer and two coats of 100% acrylic exterior paint, and it will eventually need scraping where water gets in. Stain lets the wood grain show, which suits cedar pergolas and rustic designs. Semi-transparent stains soak in and fade without peeling, so recoating is easier, though they need it more often in full sun.

Solid stain is a middle ground: it covers like paint but stays thinner and more flexible. We often suggest solid stain for pine patio covers where the grain isn't attractive but peeling paint has been a problem. If the structure is already painted, staining is no longer an option without stripping, so we'll show you what's realistic for the wood you have. Darker tones on overhead wood also absorb more heat, which matters on a patio you sit under all summer.

• Paint: crisp, matches trim, needs scraping later
• Semi-transparent stain: shows grain, fades gradually
• Solid stain: covers well, thinner and more flexible
• Clear sealers alone rarely last in Texas sun

Rafter tails and post bases are the two weak points we see most. Rafter ends dry out and split in the sun, then hold water in those splits. Small checks are cleaned out and filled with an exterior wood filler or flexible sealant before priming. Deeper rot in rafter tails is cut back and rebuilt with epoxy or replaced with a scarfed piece. Post bases sitting directly on concrete wick water from the slab and rot from the bottom up, especially where sprinklers hit them.

We probe post bottoms with an awl and recommend repairs or replacement where wood is soft, since a weak post is a structural concern rather than a paint problem. Joints between beams, ledgers and rafters get a flexible exterior caulk where water can sit. End grain on rafters gets an extra coat of primer, because it soaks up water many times faster than the face of the board. Metal post bases get rust treatment too.

Painting rafters means paint and stain drip downward, so protecting the patio, outdoor kitchen and furniture is a big part of the job. We move furniture, cover grills, stone and concrete with drop cloths and plastic, and wrap ceiling fans and light fixtures. On stained or stamped concrete, we use breathable cloths over plastic so the surface doesn't sweat under heat. Scraping and sanding happen before protection goes down for painting, and debris is cleaned up as we go.

We work top-down: rafters and purlins first, then beams, then posts, so drips land on unpainted wood rather than fresh coats. In summer we work in the morning, when the structure and patio aren't scorching. Most acrylics are dry to the touch within an hour, while oil-based stains can take several hours. Your patio is usually usable again the evening after we finish. Wasps love pergola corners, so nests are removed safely first.